Jowai is the headquarters of West Jaintia Hills in Meghalaya, a town at about 1,380 m, 64 km (1.5 to 2 hours) east of Shillong. It is the base for Nartiang's monoliths, Krang Suri Falls and Thadlaskein Lake, and hosts the Behdienkhlam festival each July. No permit is needed; the town has modest hotels and guest houses.
Jowai is a working hill town, not a resort, and that is its appeal. It sits at about 1,380 m on a ridge ringed by the Myntdu river, and it is the main town of the Pnar people, whose language, customs and festivals differ from those of the Khasi around Shillong. Traffic, markets and school runs set its rhythm.
Most travellers come to Jowai on the way to somewhere: Nartiang's monoliths lie north, Krang Suri Falls south towards Amlarem, and Dawki further south on the Umngot. Close to town, Thadlaskein Lake sits beside the Shillong highway about 9 km before Jowai, and Syntu Ksiar on the Myntdu is about 4 km out, a riverside spot with local historical associations.
The best time to see Jowai at its most distinctive is Behdienkhlam, the Pnar festival held each July after sowing, when towering decorated structures called rots are carried through town and communities gather at a sacred pool. Dates are set each year by tradition; check before you plan. Otherwise we suggest October to April, based here for one or two nights.
What makes it worth the trip
Behdienkhlam
A four-day Pnar festival in July to drive away illness and pray for a good harvest, with large decorated structures carried through town.
Thadlaskein Lake
A small, quiet lake about 9 km before Jowai on the Shillong road, with a park and boating.
Syntu Ksiar
A riverside spot on the Myntdu about 4 km from Jowai, known for local history and a calm setting.
Gateway to the Jaintia Hills
Nartiang, Krang Suri and Dawki are all within a few hours' loop from town.
Ram Kinkor Mahanta · Commons · CC0
Arindam Das · Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
Tymphew · Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0Things to do
- See Behdienkhlam if you are in Meghalaya in July
- Stop at Thadlaskein Lake on the drive from Shillong
- Walk by the Myntdu river at Syntu Ksiar
- Visit the Nartiang monoliths and Durga temple
- Swim with a life jacket at Krang Suri Falls in the dry season
- Explore Jowai's Iawmusiang market for local produce and Pnar food
- Continue south to Dawki and the Umngot River
Getting there
Jowai is about 64 km east of Shillong on the national highway towards Silchar, usually 1.5 to 2 hours by car. Shared taxis and buses run between Shillong and Jowai throughout the day. Thadlaskein Lake is on the way, about 9 km before town. From Guwahati, Jowai is roughly 165 km via Shillong; plan a night in Shillong unless you start early. Heavy trucks use this highway, so expect slow stretches and avoid driving after dark in fog.
Where to stay
Jowai has modest hotels, lodges and guest houses in and around the town centre, most suited to one or two nights. Standards are simple, so check hot water, parking and food options before booking. Homestays in nearby villages offer a more local stay. If you want a wider choice or better facilities, stay in Shillong and visit Jowai on a long day trip, or split the trip with a night in riverside camps at Shnongpdeng after Krang Suri. During Behdienkhlam in July, book well ahead.
Local tips
- Behdienkhlam dates change each year; confirm them locally before planning
- Trucks are heavy on the Shillong–Jowai highway; start early to avoid delays
- Carry cash; ATMs are available in town but can run out
- Ask permission before photographing festival rituals
- Combine Nartiang and Krang Suri with a Jowai overnight
- Many shops close on Sundays
Rain and weather
Source: IMD 1991–2020 normals
October to April for dry roads and falls trips; July for the Behdienkhlam festival.
