Dawki is a border town in West Jaintia Hills, Meghalaya, about 82 km (2.5 to 3 hours) from Shillong, where the Umngot River runs clear enough in winter that boats seem to float. Come between November and April for clarity; boating is often suspended in the monsoon. Boat rides are priced per boat; agree the fare at the ghat.
Photographs of Dawki show wooden boats that appear to hang in the air above pebbles, and on a sunny day between December and March that is roughly what you see. The Umngot River slows as it leaves the Jaintia Hills here, and in the dry months the water is so clear that the boat's shadow lies sharp on the riverbed several metres below.
Dawki itself is a small trading town on the India–Bangladesh border. The suspension bridge over the river, built in 1932, carries traffic towards the Dawki–Tamabil border crossing, and lines of trucks are part of the view. Just downstream, the river becomes the border; small markers on the bank show where India ends, and Bangladeshi villages are visible across the water.
Clarity is everything here. From June to September rain turns the Umngot green-brown and fast, and boating is often stopped. We plan Dawki between November and April, and add Shnongpdeng upstream if you want a quieter stretch of river with camping and swimming.
What makes it worth the trip
Clear-water boating
Wooden rowing boats glide over water so clear the riverbed shows through, best on sunny winter days.
Dawki suspension bridge
A 1932 suspension bridge over the Umngot, with views down onto the boats.
Border views
Bangladeshi villages and markets are visible across the river; markers show the line on the bank.
Umngot sandbanks
Boats pull in at a pebble bank upstream where you can step out, paddle and take photos.
Shnongpdeng upstream
A quieter stretch of the same river with camps, kayaking and swimming spots.
ANKAN · Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
ANKAN · Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
ANKAN · Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
Jyotishkardey · Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0Things to do
- Take a boat ride on the Umngot between November and April
- Photograph the boats from the Dawki bridge on a sunny late morning
- Walk to a safe viewpoint near the border markers, staying on the Indian side
- Paddle at the pebble banks upstream where boats stop
- Drive 10 km upstream to Shnongpdeng for camping and kayaking
- Combine with Mawlynnong and the Riwai root bridge on the same day
- Eat fresh river fish at a riverside eatery
Getting there
Dawki is about 82 km from Shillong via Pynursla, usually 2.5 to 3 hours by car. The road descends sharply in the last 20 km, and truck traffic near the bridge can add delays. Most visitors hire a taxi from Shillong for a full day that also covers Mawlynnong, about 30 km away. Shared taxis run from Shillong's Bara Bazar area to Dawki in the morning, but returning late can be hard. From Guwahati, stay a night in Shillong first; Dawki is about 180 km from Guwahati.
Where to stay
Dawki town has a few basic hotels and homestays, useful if you arrive late or cross into Bangladesh. Most travellers who want to stay by the river choose camps and homestays at Shnongpdeng, about 10 km upstream, where tents are set on the riverbank. Mawlynnong guest houses, about 30 km away, are another option. Anyone who prefers hotels with more facilities should day-trip from Shillong and accept 5 to 6 hours of driving. Book riverside camps ahead for December and long weekends.
Local tips
- Come on a sunny day between late morning and early afternoon, when light shows the riverbed best
- Wear the life jacket for the whole boat ride
- Agree the boat fare and ride length before you get in
- Do not cross border markers or wade towards the Bangladesh side
- Boating is often suspended from June to September; check current status before you travel
- Carry your rubbish back; the river is under pressure from visitor numbers
Rain and weather
Source: IMD 1991–2020 normals
November to April, when the Umngot runs clear enough to see the riverbed; boating often stops in the monsoon.
