Madhuri Lake, officially Sangetsar Tso and once called Shonga-tser, is a 3,708 m lake about 35 to 40 km by road north of Tawang, near Bum La. It formed in the 1950 earthquake and is guarded by the army. Indians need the eILP and the Bum La area permit from Tawang; foreigners are generally not allowed.
The lake got its popular name in 1997, when a song from the film Koyla was shot here with Madhuri Dixit. Locals and the army still call it Sangetsar Tso. It was created when the great Assam–Tibet earthquake of 1950 brought down rock and forest to dam a stream, and the grey trunks of the drowned trees still stand in the water.
It sits at 3,708 m in a bowl of rock and fir forest, a few kilometres off the main Bum La road. The army maintains the lakeside path and runs a small cafe where we have had some of the best hot momos and tea of any Tawang trip, especially welcome after the wind at Bum La.
Most people visit on the same day as Bum La, turning off at the junction on the way back to Tawang. The road is narrow and rough, and only local SUVs named on the permit may drive it.
What makes it worth the trip
The drowned forest
Bare tree trunks standing in the water, left from the 1950 earthquake that formed the lake.
Army cafe
A small army-run kitchen by the lake serving tea, coffee and momos when it is open.
Lakeside walk
A short, maintained path along the shore with wooden bridges and viewpoints.
Koyla connection
The lake's popular name comes from a 1997 film song shot here, and the story is told to every visitor.
Route through high lakes
The drive passes PT Tso and many smaller tarns between 3,700 and 4,500 m.
Rohit Sharma · Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
Itrajib · Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0
Rajat2015 · Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0Things to do
- Walk the shoreline path and photograph the drowned tree trunks
- Warm up with tea and momos at the army cafe
- Combine with Bum La and PT Tso in a single day from Tawang
- Watch for snow on the surrounding ridges from October to May
- Carry binoculars for birds on the water and in the fir forest
- Listen to the soldiers' short account of the lake's history
Getting there
Madhuri Lake is about 35 to 40 km from Tawang by the army road towards Bum La, turning off at a junction several kilometres below the pass. The drive takes around 2 to 2.5 hours each way because the surface is broken and single-lane in parts. Only local Tawang SUVs listed on the permit are allowed, and recent circuit prices for Bum La, PT Tso and Madhuri Lake have been Rs 5,500 to 6,000 per vehicle. To reach Tawang, allow two days from Guwahati or about 320 km from Tezpur. Check current status before you travel.
Where to stay
There is no accommodation near the lake; you return to Tawang the same day. Stay in a Tawang hotel or homestay that routinely arranges Bum La area permits and local SUVs, which makes the day easier. The upper part of town, along the monastery road, is handy for an early start. From October to April choose a room with a heater and ask for an early breakfast or a packed one, since you should leave by 7 am.
Local tips
- The lake is covered by the same special permit process as Bum La; file it a day ahead in Tawang
- Do not photograph army posts or vehicles; ask the soldiers what is allowed
- Afternoon cloud rolls in quickly, so plan to be at the lake by early afternoon
- The lake can freeze from December to March and the road may be closed by snow
- Carry cash; there are no ATMs beyond Tawang
- Wear waterproof boots; the lakeside path is often wet or icy
Rain and weather
Source: modelled climate data
April to June and October–November, when the road is usually clear and the lake is not frozen over.
